Campeche State Guide: Walled City, Maya Ruins and Coast

Campeche State occupies the western third of the Yucatán Peninsula, a stretch of Mexico that feels genuinely removed from the tourist currents running through Cancún and Mérida. With just under one million residents across 57,484 km², it is one of Mexico's least densely populated states — a place where colonial history, Maya ruins, and Gulf coast wilderness coexist without the infrastructure of mass tourism. The capital, San Francisco de Campeche, sits on the Gulf coast about halfway down the state's western edge. Founded in 1540 on the Maya settlement of Ah Kim Pech, the city became one of New Spain's most important ports, exporting hardwoods and chicle through the same waters that attracted pirates like Francis Drake and John Hawkins. The massive walls, bastions, and forts built between 1686 and 1704 to repel those raids still define the city today — Campeche is the only fully walled city in Mexico and one of very few in the Americas. Its historic centre earned UNESCO World Heritage status, and walking its pastel-coloured streets at dusk, when the sea breeze comes off the Gulf, is one of the quieter pleasures of travelling in southern Mexico.

A State Shaped by Gulf, Jungle, and Limestone

Campeche is bordered by the Gulf of Mexico to the west, Quintana Roo to the east, Yucatán State to the north, and Tabasco and Guatemala to the south. The terrain is predominantly flat — lowlands and savannah in the north, dense tropical forest in the south. The southern third of the state is dominated by the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, one of the largest protected forests in Mesoamerica, stretching across more than 7,000 km². The climate is tropical, with a rainy season from June to October and a dry season from November to May. Temperatures typically range from 25°C to 35°C year-round, with humidity rising sharply in summer. The best time to visit is December through March, when temperatures are slightly cooler and rain is rare.

Find the Part of Campeche That Calls to You

The state divides into three broad zones. The coastal strip runs from Champotón in the north through San Francisco de Campeche and Ciudad del Carmen down to the fishing villages near the Tabasco border. This is where you find the walled capital, the malecón, seafood restaurants, and the Gulf beaches that — while not Caribbean-blue — offer long stretches of sand with few crowds. The central corridor follows the highway between Campeche city and Escárcega, passing Edzná and the Hopelchén cenotes. The southern jungle holds Calakmul, the Río Bec ruins (Xpuhil, Becán, Chicanná, Hormiguero), and the remote biosphere reserves that require planning and patience to reach.

Aerial view of San Francisco de Campeche on the Gulf coast

Maya Cities Without the Crowds

Campeche holds some of the most significant Maya archaeological sites in the Yucatán region. Edzná, about an hour south of the capital, is the most accessible — a sprawling site with a five-story pyramid, a ball court, and a grand plaza that suggests the city was a major regional power between 200 BC and 1500 AD. The site is rarely crowded, and the surrounding farmland gives it an open, unhurried atmosphere. Calakmul, deep in the southern jungle near the Guatemalan border, is the other headline site. One of the largest Maya cities ever discovered, with an estimated population of 50,000 at its peak, Calakmul's two massive pyramids rise above the canopy. Howler monkeys, toucans, and the occasional jaguar share the site with visitors. Most people base themselves in Xpujil (in Quintana Roo) or near the Calakmul reserve entrance and hire a guide for the drive in. The Río Bec cluster — Becán, Chicanná, Hormiguero, and Xpuhil — sits along the highway south of Calakmul and features distinctive twin-tower temples and elaborate stucco facades. These ruins see very few visitors, and reaching them requires a rental car or private driver.

Wild Coast, Living Lagoons, and Vast Forest

The Gulf coast of Campeche is not the turquoise-water postcard of Quintana Roo. The water is murkier, the beaches browner, but the trade-off is solitude. Champotón, about two hours north of the capital, is the most appealing coastal town — a working fishing village with a long beach, a malecón, and restaurants serving fresh catch at prices that feel reasonable by any standard. Laguna de Terminos, north of Ciudad del Carmen, is one of Mexico's largest coastal lagoons, a maze of mangroves, estuaries, and channels that supports dolphins, manatees, and large flocks of migratory birds. Boat tours operate from Isla Aguada and other access points. Los Petenes Biosphere Reserve, north of Campeche city, protects a unique ecosystem of mangroves, petenes (islands of trees growing up through shallow water), and cenotes along the coast. Flamingo sightings are common in the lagoon areas during the winter months, though specific locations vary seasonally — ask locally for current conditions.

Beach at Champotón on the Campeche coast

Turn Campeche’s Distances into a Rewarding Route

Most visitors arrive by bus. The ADO terminal in San Francisco de Campeche connects to Mérida (about 2.5 hours), Cancún (5–6 hours), and other peninsula cities. Campeche International Airport (MMCP) has limited commercial service — check current schedules before planning around it, as routes change. The Tren Maya now stops at San Francisco de Campeche and Edzná, offering a new option for arriving from Palenque, Calakmul, and other points along the route. Within the state, a rental car is essential for anything beyond the capital and its immediate surroundings. The distances are significant: Campeche city to Calakmul is roughly 300 km, much of it on a narrow road through the biosphere with limited services. Fuel stations are sparse south of Escárcega — fill up before you leave the city. For the Río Bec ruins, a car is non-negotiable; there is no public transport to speak of.

Taste a Culture Shaped by Sea and Maya Traditions

Campeche's cuisine is built on Gulf seafood. Pan de cazón — layered tortillas with dogfish shark, black beans, and tomato sauce — is the state's signature dish and appears on menus throughout the capital. Fresh fish, shrimp, and octopus appear grilled, fried, or in ceviche at restaurants along the malecón and around the main plaza. The state's Carnival, held in February or March, is one of Mexico's oldest, with parades, traditional dances, and a festive energy that spills through the streets for over a week. The Fiesta de la Guadalupe in December brings processions and celebrations to towns across the state.

Know Before You Go

Campeche State is generally safe for travellers. The capital has a low-key, relaxed atmosphere even at night, and violent crime against visitors is rare. Standard precautions apply — avoid isolated areas after dark, keep valuables secure, and be cautious with ATMs in smaller towns. The heat is the most underestimated hazard: carry water, wear a hat, and plan outdoor activities for early morning or late afternoon during the warmer months. Mosquitoes are prevalent near lagoons and in the southern jungle; bring repellent. Cash is necessary outside the capital — smaller towns, market stalls, and lagoon docks operate on cash only. ATMs are available in Campeche city and Ciudad del Carmen but can be unreliable in remote areas.

Give Campeche the Time It Deserves

For a focused visit of one week, you can cover the capital (2–3 days), Edzná (a half day), and either Champotón or Laguna de Terminos (1–2 days). To include Calakmul, add at least two more days — one for the drive and one for exploring the ruins. The Río Bec cluster requires a full day on top of that. Campeche rewards travellers who move slowly and accept its pace. The distances are long, the heat is real, and the infrastructure is modest compared to Yucatán or Quintana Roo — but the sense of discovery is genuine, and the lack of crowds means the places you visit feel like they belong to you.

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